Eyes Wide Open

When I speak with Peter Philips, he’s just finished reinventing Dior’s 5 Couleurs Palette and Diorshow Iconic Overcurl Mascara – two products that hold a dear place in my beauty-loving heart. I’m tempted to ask, ‘Why fix something that’s not broken?’ No doubt a question he’s faced before, he picks up on what I want to say, without me having to say it.

“It was time to fine-tune, adapt and reinvent the formula,” says Philips, speaking from his Parisian office. Well aware of how many beauty enthusiasts around the globe have grown up with the Dior 5 Couleurs palette in their make-up bags, Philips says it was crucial to not touch the core concept of the beauty stalwart. “It was one of the first of its kind,” he says, recalling the initial, five wearable shades of eyeshadow in a striking palette almost too beautiful to use. 

While 5 Couleurs might have been a unique offering 25 years ago, these days we’re spoilt for choice when it comes to make-up. “There are so many palettes on the market now, so it’s important for me to stay in touch with that, and offer something different,” says Philips of the new palettes, which have been aptly renamed Dior 5 Couleurs Couture. “They really dress the eye,” he offers, by way of explanation. 

And indeed, drawing on the maison’s most-loved fashion pieces, Philips has brought the colours of Dior to life through 5 Couleurs Couture. There’s Rouge Trafalgar – a daring palette of earthy reds, soft pinks and burgundy – a tribute to Christian Dior’s ‘coups de Trafalgar’. “There’s a real story behind it,” says Philips as he explains how Christian Dior would surprise audiences with a vivid red dress in the middle of one of his shows. 

While Dior’s fashion world was an important muse for Philips, he says the main driver while redesigning and reformulating the products was his commitment to helping women look and feel beautiful while using them. “Not every woman wants to be fashionable; not every woman is aware of what’s on the latest catwalks,” he says. “But I believe every woman wants to be beautiful. When I create a whole new range of eyeshadows, I don’t want it to be about fashion trends; I want it to guarantee beauty.”

“It sounds very cliche,” he continues. “But the products are for every woman.” He’s right. Amongst the punchy reds and vibrant blues are a range of more accessible hues – still beautiful, if not as dramatic or daring – like the soft browns in the Mitzah palette. And as far as the shades that seem decidedly not for the faint-hearted make-up enthusiast, such as those reds and blues, Philips assures me that even these are easy to wear. The trick, of course, is knowing how to apply them with Philips’s finesse. 

A new formula helps here, containing nurturing ingredients such as aloe vera. “The payoff is really high quality in colour and texture; they’re really easy to blend,” explains Philips. “How you decide to wear them is really up to you – you can go very matte or very sparkly.”

And then there’s the reformulated Diorshow Iconic Overcurl Mascara and new Diorshow 24H Stylo eyeliner for your finishing touches. “It’s waterproof and caring. It’s very easy to apply – it just glides on, and it’s very long-lasting,” says Philips of the 24H Stylo, which comes in classic shades as well as gold, silver and bronze.

Despite how easy it is to remove make-up looks we’re not sure about, Philips agrees that many women are afraid to experiment with bolder shades and looks. But he also believes that social media has helped to democratise beauty. “It’s taken away the elite side of make-up; it’s made it more accessible,” he says. No longer are catwalks, advertising campaigns and our televisions the only touch points for beauty inspiration. “On social media, you can see people just like yourself, playing and being creative and daring with make-up, and that’s encouraging,” he says. 

At the end of the day, it’s just make-up. “It’s less permanent than a new haircut, and even that grows back!” he laughs. So, if you’re willing to step out of your comfort zone this spring? Philips suggests heading to a Dior counter and asking one of the make-up artists to talk you through a new look. Once home, says Philips, just have fun with it. “Build the colour up; try playing with it and adding a little more, and always take selfies,” he suggests. “You have your reflection in the mirror, but with the harsh bathroom light, you’re likely to be very critical of yourself and in that moment you might take it off,” he argues. “If you take that selfie, two days later you might look at it and think, actually, it’s not that bad. Or you might think ‘Oh, it’s even worse than I thought!’” he laughs. “Either way, it will help you.”