Easy Does It

Tired of spending all that time applying layer upon layer of skincare only to end up wondering if all those potions and lotions are changing your skin for the better? We talk with the beauty insiders who believe our complicated routines are about to make way for a new pared-back approach to skincare.

Forget about ‘umming’ and ‘aahing’ over the next TV series to binge later tonight: a growing number of us will be tied up in the bathroom, layering serum upon moisturiser in the quest for that sought-after ethereal, glowing complexion. There’s no doubt we’re living in the golden age of beauty – we’re spoilt for choice when it comes to skincare. Name a skin concern, and there’s a cleanser, moisturiser, serum, mask and eye cream that will address your unique skin concerns. But what about all the ancillary lotions and potions? An essence, a pre-serum serum, a face mask, a night mask, a mechanical exfoliator, a chemical exfoliator – the list goes on. Tally them all up, and before you know it, your bathroom vanity is bursting at the seams, and you’re not sure what product does what anymore.

While the K-beauty movement introduced us to products and steps in our routine many of us now can’t live without – sheet masks, double cleansing, essences – the 10-step-plus routine has left many feeling perplexed. “Even the most diligent skincare user can get overwhelmed when faced with too many products,” agrees Emma Hobson, director of education for Dermalogica Asia Pacific.

Although using various products to tackle different concerns might seem like a one-way ticket to radiant, youthful skin, Hobson says that’s not always the case. “The skin being bombarded with an excess of active products can also create sensitivity issues,” she explains. Not to mention other problems that can crop up with an extensive routine. “Add the time challenges with having to apply each product morning and evening, and top that off with the financial implications of the cost of so many products in your daily regimen, and it’s easy to see why the trend is dissipating to a more simple, yet still effective skincare routine,” Hobson says.

Lucy Shaw, retail skincare manager at MECCA brands, believes two big factors are driving the shift towards a pared-back skincare routine. Shaw points to our increasingly time-poor lifestyles and our growing environmental awareness as the catalysts for change. “Our consumers are getting younger and younger, and the next generation of skincare junkies are starting to become extremely conscious about preserving our planet,” she believes. “This means that if they can cut back on the number of products they are using and therefore unnecessary waste, they will do so,” she adds.

Shaw says time is another big factor that many are taking into consideration when building their skincare routines. “Everybody seems to be more time-poor than ever before, therefore consumers want to invest their precious time – and money – in skincare that is quick, easy and gives instant results.”

As well as a multiple-step beauty routine eating into our spare time and our bank accounts, loading the skin with active ingredients could be doing more harm than good. “A lot of the time I see people who are double-dipping certain ingredients, over-cleansing and over-exfoliating,” says Shaw. Ingredients such as retinol and acids that have become increasingly common in a whole array of skincare products need to be used with care, and with extensive, multi-step routines, it’s easy to end up overdoing it with certain ingredients without knowing it. “As your skin can only take in so many actives at one time, applying layer upon layer can not only be a waste of time and product but also almost redundant for the skin,” says Shaw.

While Shaw understands that it’s easy to get caught up in the hype and keep adding additional steps, she also believes that there’s too much fear around ageing. “Consumers apply corrective anti-ageing products in the hope that it will prevent ageing, but I think we should listen to the skin and give it what it needs,” she says.

ESTABLISH PRIORITIES

As for how many steps you actually need in your routine for it to be effective, there’s no magic number guaranteed to give you the glowing skin you’ve always dreamed of. Hobson says it’s not so much about how many products you have, it’s more about how many you use at any given time. She says while she owns more than 15 products, she doesn’t use each one daily. “The skin is a living organ; it constantly changes according to environmental factors, so it’s important to adapt your daily routine to the skin’s needs,” she explains. Hobson says that a mix of around five to eight products is fairly normal, especially if a few are multi-taskers. “Weekly you can add a couple more, such as exfoliants and masks,” she says.

When it comes to whittling down an already-extensive routine and picking the right products for your skin, Shaw suggests taking a step back and asking yourself what your skincare priorities are. “Do I want to work on getting rid of my dark spots or target redness? Start by addressing your skin priorities and work through them. There are, of course, products and steps that are essential maintenance, such as proper cleansing and moisturising.” Shaw says that once you’ve got your skin’s daily needs covered, you can start to add targeted treatments, masks or serums that address specific concerns.

Hobson agrees that understanding your skin will make it easier to know what it needs. “Know your primary concerns and focus on using products that address those so you are satisfied with the results,” she says. “Visit a professional skin therapist armed with your current product programme, they can evaluate your skin and advise what you currently need, what can be used daily and what you may want to use less frequently.” Hobson says over and above a great cleanser, moisturiser and daily SPF, she recommends at least one serum, a good eye care product and an exfoliant a couple of times a week. Beyond the basics, she says to think about what you can omit for a while or what you don’t really see the benefit of using. She also suggests avoiding products that seem gimmicky and asking for a sample first to try before buying. “I’d also recommend you find a product line that if you’re unhappy with the results offers a 100 per cent money-back guarantee. This provides great peace of mind.”

Both Shaw and Hobson believe a less-is-more approach to the way we care for skin will be the norm very soon. “I suspect that as consumers become more confident with their skincare and become more and more educated on products, the future of skincare routines will be fewer steps and more mixing,” believes Shaw. She thinks we’ll forgo the buying-based-on-steps approach, and invest more in products that we enjoy using. “I think that we will buy products based on texture, consistency and skin benefits,” she says. “I also believe that we will make more eco-conscious decisions, focus less on ‘steps’ and target imperfections.”

Hobson believes our time-poor lifestyles will continue to influence our skincare routines. “As we continue to be time-starved skincare will need to fit into our busy lifestyles, routines will have less volume of products but the products will be more efficacious,” she explains. “Skincare will become very ‘personalised’, you may find your weekly products are delivered to your door that have been crafted from the weekly analysis of your skin, including the health of your skin microbiota and your DNA. Skincare will continue to be simplified in ‘volume’ but increased in efficacy,” she says. So while a future where our skincare routine consists of one miracle superstar product that truly can do it all might not be on the horizon just yet, there’s never been a better time to pare back your routine and focus on the products that deliver results.

This feature originally appeared in STYLE magazine.